Great route
Indian Ocean
The southern Indian Ocean, storm latitudes and long self-sufficient passages.
Publications are arranged chronologically – from the earliest to the most recent. Select a title to open the full entry.
Cape of Good Hope Rounded!
“Mum, I couldn’t find those Fisherman’s lozenges you wanted, but they’ve got these little open thingamajigs here. They’re minty and really strong.” Nastya and I settle for the thingamajig…
Our First Storm in the Indian Ocean
“You’re my heroic woman, aren’t you?” The captain seems to be half stating, half asking. “I don’t know...” I suddenly sniff through a nose gone wet. Bundled into foul-weather gear, I’m si…
The Doldrums. A Week in the Ocean
Over the course of yesterday’s daylight hours, we covered minus five miles. That is exactly how much farther Lady Mary ended up from our destination on the Australian coast. This prompted…
Adventures in the Ocean. Day 9
“Holy crap!” The captain’s eyes are round, visible even in the dark. “Our bilge is full of water!” “Switch on the shower sump pump. Take the handle and go pump the water out from the cock…
Living the Dream: Dreary Days. Indian Ocean, Day 12
It was calm for several days, then the wind picked up overnight. It’s 20–25 knots for now; we’re expecting 30. The swell immediately turned nasty, but at least our progress towards the de…
Out of Range. Indian Ocean, Days 13–14
“So, Andryush, how are we going to manage now without a weather forecast? With no contact with the outside world and, potentially, no navigation? And I have an article to send in four day…
Southern Ocean, Day 16
“Andryukha, I’m going to earn myself some time off by standing all these watches, and then, when it starts blowing, you and Nastya can take the strain, all right? Here I am, standing watc…
When There’s No Fish, You’re Glad of Any Encounter. Week Three on the Ocean
“Wheee-oo!”—an actual whistle came over our radio. “Hey, ship, what are you doing here?” Half an hour earlier, a fishing vessel had appeared on AIS. “Hi! I’m sailing to Australia.” “You’r…
Valentine’s Day. Three Weeks in the Ocean
“I invite you for a romantic stroll on deck!” The captain’s face disappeared from the doorway, replaced by the trouser leg of his foul-weather gear. Realising that I couldn’t dream up a b…
The Storm Is Closing In. Southern Ocean, Day 23
The Southern Ocean is wonderful! Just like Matroskin in Prostokvashino: you don’t even need to buy a fridge. Two and a half crates of apples are sitting there as fresh as the day they wer…
Storm and Mayhem. Southern Indian Ocean Passage, Day 25
“Mum, why are we rolling so badly?” “Because it’s a storm, sweetheart.” 11:00. We hove to yesterday before nightfall. We’re being tossed around in our bunks, and going anywhere on the boa…
The Captain Is Always Right
Morning, 20 February. The storm has long since been spitting with rage somewhere behind us, but we are still heading north. So hard north, in fact, that we are already heading west. And i…
Sisyphean Labour. Southern Ocean, Days 27–30
Breaking Records for Breakdowns There has been no time for posts or letters. Here is a list of our activities over the past few days: an attempt to repair the engine and revive the heater…
Surviving the Southern Ocean. Day 32
“So, Mum, are you comfortable down there?” the young sailor asks solicitously as I squeeze myself onto her bunk, which is tucked under the table in the wheelhouse. After 32 days at sea, I…
Guess What Broke This Time? Indian Ocean, Roaring Forties, Day 34
Incident Number One Let’s start from a little way back. Yesterday we hoisted midshipman Nastya up the mast to untangle the main halyard. The three-metre swell worked against our efforts, …
From Midshipman Nastya
Dear readers! Since Mum is writing an urgent article about the heroic Metelitsa polar team and doesn’t have time for a post, this burden has fallen on my fragile shoulders)). Midshipman N…
40 Days in the Indian Ocean
Do you know what my signature move is? Taking on an impossible burden and dragging it to the finish line on a tight deadline, while that proverbial rooster is pecking me—you know where. A…
How the Sail Tore Loose. Indian Ocean Passage, Day 42
We’re riding out the storm hove-to. Or rather, we were; now we’re flying along. There isn’t even that much wind—35 knots (Force 7–8). But for the past few days we’ve been sailing close-ha…
March 8. Southern Indian Ocean, Day 44
Girls, spring is on its way! Renewal, bright colours, inspiration and love! Let’s hurry and cast off the winter blues—and onward, to new heights! Into silk dresses and elegant shoes, into…
Australia Is Close! Indian Ocean Passage, Day 46.
March 10 is Artist’s Day, the young sailor and I decided, and we settled down to paint in oils. Lada produced a funny ginger cat, while I painted an Impressionist bouquet—almost Monet, on…
Do Good and Cast It into the Sea. Indian Ocean, Day 48
We’re figuring out the ins and outs of entering Australia. The forecast is this: 6 litres of beans, 5 litres of peas and the same amount of lentils, as well as brown rice, quinoa, millet,…
New Threats. Indian Ocean, Day 51
“Sailors are supposed to go ashore looking spick and span,” or so our favourite performer claims in one of his songs (guess who?). So Lady Mary is having a spring clean. Cleaning the bilg…
Waiting for the Weather by the Sea. 53 Days in the Ocean
And no sooner had we stretched out in the sunshine and hung up the freshly washed clothes to dry, no sooner had we scrubbed 80% of the boat, than the good times came to an end... Before t…
Australia — the End of the Indian Ocean Passage
Starry Nights The night before landfall was the twin sister of the previous night’s stellar mystery. These were the first nights in a year and a half when we stood on deck gazing at the s…