Cuba. First Impressions

Cuba. First Impressions When, while completing the formalities, we said that our young sailor’s name was Lada, the inspector beamed: “Oh, like the car!” We did not yet know why they knew our cars so well here... ... And so, Hemingway Marina outside Havana: four long canals where boats moor alongside the concrete quay. Across the canal stands a three-star hotel in the style of small Crimean sanatoriums from the 1970s. Palm trees, birds, and an altogether resort-like view. “Just like when we were kids,” the first mate says fondly. The impression is heightened by the complete absence of billboards and the occasional passing car: Zhigulis and Moskviches, Chaikas and vintage American convertibles in the style of Elvis Presley; only the rare ordinary foreign car brings you back to reality. Showers are included in the price of our ticket, so we go there every day. Fortunately, we chose the right quay and do not have to make a kilometre-long detour just to wash. We revel in the hot water, although Lada tries to choose a new cubicle every time: “Because everything comes out of the tap here, not the shower head.” The showers and laundry are located in... a bar. Despite its name, El Dorado, the perfectly respectable bar looks devoid of both people and drinks. On the flat-screen TV, meanwhile, a full-figured lady in a glittering blue dress sings of her mutual passion for a portly older gentleman in a white suit. The action takes place in a cottage by the stairs. The gentleman is willing; he, too, feels nostalgic for their shared youth now gone and is still inspired by those languid, made-up eyes.... Shops The marina’s hub has a couple of shops and a stylish cigar bar. In the first shop you think, “Cool—just booze and a few snacks” (well, assorted tins, crisps, and sponge-rubber cupcakes). In the second, you go all misty-eyed: “Good grief, it’s the Soviet Union!” Pasta, toilet paper, three kinds of sausage, and one kind of cheese (though it is not always available; when there is no cheese, they bring in kefir). Once you have finished getting properly sentimental, you decide to go into town for vegetables and fruit, assuming that the marina shops stock only the bare essentials for a quick bite, whereas in town...(!) And instead of looking for food, you go to admire the local transport. And there is plenty to admire! (And when we have proper internet again, rather than this disgrace, we will not only put spaces between the paragraphs, but also add photographs to the texts : )). There goes a ZIL, chugging past—the very same kind that used to deliver bread to the bakery near Grandma’s house. Behind it, rumbling sedately, glides a bright scarlet Chevrolet from around 1964. Taxis straight out of the film Beware of the Car invite us to take a ride to Havana. But we are in no hurry to leave the Havana outskirts just yet, and finish our inspection of the Hemingway sanatorium-and-resort complex before returning to our boatkeeping chores. A Hotel, Cuban Style The crowning achievements of the architecture of developed socialism were the creations of Soviet masters in the 1970s. They once housed sanatoriums for Cuban workers; now some of the buildings are closed or abandoned, while American citizens (and others) holiday in the part that has survived. The three-star hotel bears the proud name Acuario, and the walls of its lobby tell the sad story of The Old Man and the Sea. And the reception staff do not appear to speak English. At any rate, Andrey exchanged cash dollars for local CUCs in Spanish, and obtained hourly internet cards the same way. With the card, we even managed to log in to social media and read our messages, though we were barely able to reply to them.... But those will be our second impressions of Cuba. For now, we are thoroughly enjoying this unmistakable throwback to childhood at summer camp, and every evening Cuban musicians come to Acuario, twenty metres away across the canal, adding some local colour to the cosy little slice of Soviet life. So every evening, live Cuban music is delivered right to our door. Our second impressions will be out soon : ). Wishing everyone humour and a zest for life!